Panoramic vistas from East brother Light station includes sweeping views of the strait separating San Francisco and San Pablo bays the San Rafael bridge the San Francisco skyline and Marin, Contra Costa, and
San Francisco counties Photo courtesy of East Brother Light Station

Soaking up the sun at EBLS Photo by Mike Nellor

California Rambling: East Brother Light Station with love

Barbara L. Steinberg / Special to the Mountain Democrat, May 6, 2026

At last, after decades of dreaming, this bucket-list item is crossed off. Celebrating our fifth wedding anniversary, a two-night stay was the perfect gift. We had no
idea what to expect. We can honestly say it was more than we ever imagined. This one-of-a-kind bed-and-breakfast inn is accessible only by boat from Point
San Pablo Harbor. Open year-round, access is occasionally unavailable because of weather, tides and power outages.

Panoramic vistas from East Brother Light Station include sweeping
views of the strait separating San Francisco and San Pablo bays, the San Rafael Bridge, the San Francisco skyline and Marin, Contra Costa and San Francisco counties. Across the way, separated by a narrow strait, is West Brother Island, East Brother’s sibling.
Passing freighters and ferries are part of the magic.

The tides were in our favor; boat trips to and from the island were comfortable. High tides and rough conditions can prevent passage from the mainland to East Brother,
in which case reservations might be canceled. Guests are told this going in; fingers crossed is always important. We enjoyed perfect autumn weather, an absolute stroke of luck.

Innkeepers Danielle and Rae, who were seven months into the role, were incredible hosts, tour guides, chefs and comics. We were the only guests who stayed two nights
and were pleased we opted for the continued solitude and starry skies. From our second-story room, we relished the beautiful view of West Brother Island and the raucous comings and goings of island birds. Delicious breakfasts, happy hours and dinners provided
ample sustenance. A small communal refrigerator stores snacks and beverages that lodgers are welcome to bring. We enjoyed the company of other guests, many Bay Area locals and some from San Diego and Illinois. If you are a wildlife and nature lover, put this
at the top of your list. Not only a wide range of birds but also harbor seals, sea lions and harbor porpoises were seen during our visit.

Maintenance at East Brother is a herculean task. The biggest challenge right now is raising $700,000 to replace the gangway and pier platform where guests disembark
and embark. The EBLS nonprofit also has a new program collaborating with organizations serving young people and underserved communities. In hopes of securing more grants for island repairs, these trips will be at no cost to partners. Otherwise, the island
is available only to guests.

Although the bed-and-breakfast provides binoculars, it is best to bring your own if you have a good pair. However, many birds and mammals are easily visible without
binoculars. The island is home to Anna’s hummingbirds, Heermann’s gulls, western gulls, elegant terns, black phoebes, yellow-rumped warblers, house finches, black oystercatchers and common ravens. Nearby West Brother Island is a rookery for brown pelicans,
double-crested cormorants, Brandt’s cormorants and gull species. Turkey vultures and wild turkeys are also seasonal visitors. Mammals observed in the surrounding waters include harbor seals, sea lions and harbor porpoises.

Historically, all lighthouses, including East Brother, had permanent residents. There was no such thing as commuting to the lighthouse. When whale oil and kerosene
were used, keepers had to trim the wick every two hours, so the work was nonstop. Supplies were delivered, but rainwater was harvested and used to create steam for the foghorn. There was no electricity until 1934, when East Brother had a submarine cable installed
to provide mainland power, replacing kerosene lamps. The operational foghorn at East Brother Light Station is now an electronic, solar-powered device that replaced the historical, high-maintenance diaphone system. The original mechanical 1920s-era diesel-powered
air compressor system is no longer the official foghorn but is typically demonstrated for guests. Be sure to cover your ears. The lighthouse is still a functioning aid to navigation, but the Fresnel lens has been replaced by a modern LED light.

Today, the island is managed by innkeepers who make at least a two-year commitment to serve. A tour and history of the island are provided to all visitors. The three-quarters
of an acre provides little room to roam but still offers ample opportunity to walk or simply breathe.

Side note: Point San Pablo Harbor is a destination unto itself, offering food, music, views of the bay and an eclectic collection of interactive art from Burning Man.